Is there such thing? And if so, is it a good additive for my honda civic 1.7 engine? I heard honda's like a lot of moly...where can I get it?

Yes there is. Do a google for Lubro Moly...

What is the recommended usage level of that? The entire bottle per oil change?

Forget oil additives, I really doubt Honda recommends any. If you want better lubrication, then go for synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or Amsoil.

Try a single quart of Redline whatever weight you are running now at each oil change.

I would run Redline motor oil. LOTS of moly.

Hi, I am a proud user of that "snake oil" - Bob actually has a whole section on MoS2, and he shows the electron microscope pictures that prove that it actually does something, and is beneficial. Molybdenum is becoming expensive, so oil companies will only put in the minimum amount, in order to save costs. For another $2.50, the price of half a bottle of Promoly, you can supplement your oil with a very heavy amount of this excellent metal. I have been using MoS2 for the past 25 years, religiously, on all of my vehicles. It comes in Canada, in a bottle called MolySlip. I think they import it in 55 gallon drums from England. Probably the same stuff gets imported to USA, and poured into bottles called LubroMoly. Treat your engine with a
"loading dose" of the full recommended amount. Then after that, all of the innards of the engine have been coated. The actual "frictional" parts of the motor, the "business" end, is much smaller, but it is here where the MoS2 gets "sacrificed", and needs to be replaced. So I only treat the engine with a "maintenance dose", after the original "loading dose", and for this, I put in only 100ml or 150ml depending on the size of the engine/crankcase. I buy mine by the extra large case, of 12 x 1 litre. However, USA customers buy LubroMoly for about half the price that Canadians pay for their Molyslip, when they buy a case of 20 bottles of 300 ml. This stuff works great, but one half a bottle per oil change is all you need. Any more than that is just wasted, and in order to be good conservationists, and conserve this valuable metal, just add 150ml per oil change for a large engine. Because you have a Honda 1.7, this is a nice small engine, with a 3.5l oil capacity
and all you need is 100 ml per oil change, which works out to about 2 bucks - bonus!!!

buy it from world impex online

ive been told that it takes about 7k mi for the moly to fully "penetrate" the metal. and majority of it is drained at oci, only the very small particles that "penetrate" well stay...

do you have any uoas w/ lubro-moly?

only occasional verbal reports of excellent UOA with MoS2, mainly you're just buying a tiny amount of added protection of the very rare oil breakdown. My impression, and you can read Bob's article on it, is that MoS2 very quickly coats all of the exposed metal, and sticks to it using some kind of molecular attraction. the MoS2 particles pile up on each other, and "sacrifice" themselved under periods of extreme stress. It doesn't penetrate the metal, it just fills in the submicroscopic pits in the metal and makes the surfaces smoother, and when the metal parts get too close to each other, the MoS2 tends to get wiped off, before the actual metal gets worn off or scuffed. After the initial treatment, most of the metal has a nice coating, and only the high wear areas need to be replenished, so that's why you'll only need 100ml. at each oil change. With modern SM oils being so good, the difference in UOA will be negligible. The only difference MIGHT be the very rare episode of scuffing having been prevented. The most important thing with oil, is that the oil is TOO THICK at start up, to flow well, and TOO THICK to properly lubricate an engine. That is why Dr. Haas recommends using as thin a weight as possible, and the use of 0wxx full synthetic is recommended if you have cold starts, although Dr. Haas uses 5w20 in his Explorer - he lives in Florida, so he doesn't have real winter to contend with.
linky to help you out:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?s=2...otor_oil_basics

Taylor, i think the Moly coats straight away, and if not used in the next oil change, will take about 7000k's to wear off. It coats until no more is needed and apparently it can be seen in UOA where after a few uses the MOly level increases in the oil after its coated effectively. Strangely i did some UOA on a oil (ULX110) with about 600+ppm of Moly and still had high wear. I know its good stuff but are there UOA showing Redline with heaps of Moly vs another with hardly any showing a difference ? Isnt Zinc used for anti scuffing, boundary lubrication etc etc ? Moly is fantastic in that it is an anti oxidant as well....so i believe. I have a can of this liqui moly tucked away in the cupboard somewhere

I suspect that the real difference is very slight.
However, you can see in Bob's electron microscope pictures, that something happened. I would expect this to translate, on the microscopic flow level, as more uniform and slightly faster oil flow. what i like about MoS2 is that there are years of testimonies, that no one has debunked, no one in all these years has taken them to court for false or misleading advertising, the product is cheap enough, as long as you use half the recommended amount (which I think is more than enough), and in my own usage, my wife reports that the engine has become extraordinarily quiet. She picked up the Impreza 2.5l NA in Minneapolis, a rental with 7000 miles, drove it home 1000 miles, then drove it for another 7000 miles, while I've been doing oil changes (with Frankenmix) and adding judicious amount of MoS2. The last oil change, an actual difference was reported, quieter engine (which is really quiet to start with), quieter at high speeds.
In my opinion, the car always runs like a top. It has a built in mileage guage, which started at 25mpg (during rental service), and has gradually crept up to 27.9mpg, as both more hwy miles get factored in, the engine wears in better, and (possibly, but no one knows for sure) the effects of very fine lubrication take effect.

I would like one of the resident tribologist to make comment hehe. So you say do the initial full can, then maintenance dose it (1/2 a can) after that ? Maybe use some Auto-RX as well....

I love moly, the theory behind how it works, it does work there's on doubt, look how its used to strengthen metals and so on etc. Also in theory it should be causing hardly any wear at all.

Sounds good...........But wouldn't there be conflicting chemistry?

Frank D

None at all. Moly is a much better performer on clean metal. A good moly oil is sold by a bitog sponsor.