Help with brake bleed on a Pathfinder

[jsean]

Was doing a brake job on the 2011 Pathfinder. Rear calipers on both sides are frozen in the extended position and won’t retract whether I use c clamps or the caliper retraction tool. Previous owner rounded off the bleeders on all 4 corners. Turns out they are frozen. I tried opening the bleeder on the LR caliper and it gave up the ghost. Fast dripping brake fluid!

I filled up the reservoir with whatever DOT3 I had on hand and ran to an AZ to grab some fluid and new calipers. In the 30 mins it took me to get back, the reservoir was empty except for a small pocket of fluid that was towards the firewall/ back of the car (looking at it from the front of the vehicle). The caliper bleeder had also stopped dripping completely. I swapped out the caliper on that corner for the new one.

How much trouble am I here in? Or can I get by with just the normal bleeding at each caliper once I have them all replaced?

Also, any tips on how to handle the ABS pump on these during brake bleeds?

 

[2009Caraman]

I dont know the car but if its rear disc brakes the e brake is a screw mechanism. You have to twist the pistons to get them to retract.

Youll need to free or replace all the bleeders to get proper brakes no doubt now that air has been intruduced.

 

[atikovi]

I filled up the reservoir with whatever DOT3 I had on hand and ran to an AZ to grab some fluid and new calipers. In the 30 mins it took me to get back, the reservoir was empty except for a small pocket of fluid that was towards the firewall

Not clear from the wording, but are you saying you filled up the reservoir and left the truck at home, then you ran to AZ for fluid and calipers? You didn't actually drive it there with the bad brakes?

 

[jsean]

Not clear from the wording, but are you saying you filled up the reservoir and left the truck at home, then you ran to AZ for fluid and calipers? You didn't actually drive it there with the bad brakes?

That’s right, I left the truck at home with the rears up on jack stands while I went to AZ and got back. I did hit the brakes maybe twice while the truck was up to see if it leaked any worse while the brakes were actuated vs. not actuated.

 

[atikovi]

OK, but you didn't physically RUN to AZ, you drove something else there.

 

[jsean]

I dont know the car but if its rear disc brakes the e brake is a screw mechanism. You have to twist the pistons to get them to retract.

Youll need to free or replace all the bleeders to get proper brakes no doubt now that air has been intruduced.

Got it. I’m unsure if I need to bleed at the master cylinder since it got so low on fluid or will I get by with the usual bleeding at the calipers?

 

[2009Caraman]

Got it. I’m unsure if I need to bleed at the master cylinder since it got so low on fluid or will I get by with the usual bleeding at the calipers?

you shouldnt have to.

 

[wtd]

The only way to know is try bleeding it at the calipers first and if that doesn't work, do the master cylinder.

I have had master cylinders go dry on a couple of 90's model GM products and me not knowing it and pressing on the brake pedals and I got away with just bleeding at the calipers and was ok. Given that yours is a lot newer, I don't know if you will get as lucky.

 

[jsean]

I don’t think I’m as lucky. Here’s the latest on where things stand. I bled the calipers twice - RR caliper had a few air bubbles during the 2nd go around. However, I have nice clean stream of fluid on all corners now.

The pedal feel is consistent and stiff during the bleed (power off, ABS disconnected). However, as soon as the engine is running, the brake pedal reverts back to long travel.

Any thoughts on what I can do eliminate the brake pedal feel issue?

 

[SC Maintenance]

First you should go to Nico Club and get the FSM, because what I am going to tell you works for my 2008 Xterra and my 2011 Frontier, but I can't promise it works for your pathfinder, but they are a very similar platform.

Nissan's of this vintage have a very strange brake blead order due to the ABS - Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front. Yes I know, everyone will tell you this is completely wrong - go to the manual, I will bet money that's the order - like I said, same for Xterra and Frontier. If you do it the normal way - furthest to nearest - the ABS will take the peddle slowly to the floor when the truck is running.

Second and maybe an issue - those U-shaped loops going and coming from the ABS module may have air in them, and because the bleeder screws are smaller than the lines its tough to get out. I am told you can take the brake line off the caliper and give it five rapid pumps. Hopefully that flushes fluid through those loops. Much easier with a helper. Refill the master cylinder between each wheel.

Third - you might have air in the ABS solenoids. Right way to clear it is get a ABS tool and manually cycle each solenoid. Not a bad idea anyway, because they seize up if not used. The hilbilly way is to get the truck as good as you can with the other two methods, then take it to a gravel road and get the ABS to come on a few times, then go home and blead the brakes again. I strongly encourage the first way, I have never personally tried the hillbilly way so I can't verify it works, and its also much less safe. Consider yourself warned.

Good luck. Let me know if you have any questions - but I strongly encourage you to check out the manual before proceeding.

 

[The Critic]

Here is the FSM:

Factory Service Manuals

Trouble loading the file? Visit this page to find additional Nissan, Infiniti, and Datsun factory service manuals.

www.nicoclub.com

For future reference, this is how you stop the brake fluid from leaking out during these situations:

Stopping brake fluid flow without damaging hose

Some know I'm going to try to rebuild my 37yo brake caliper, and some know I have very little free time with work and kids. So it could take a bit of time... So, what to do regarding brake hoses? I'd like to remove the caliper, so a rebuild, but not empty the reservoir and MC. I've thought...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[jsean]

First you should go to Nico Club and get the FSM, because what I am going to tell you works for my 2008 Xterra and my 2011 Frontier, but I can't promise it works for your pathfinder, but they are a very similar platform.

Nissan's of this vintage have a very strange brake blead order due to the ABS - Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front. Yes I know, everyone will tell you this is completely wrong - go to the manual, I will bet money that's the order - like I said, same for Xterra and Frontier. If you do it the normal way - furthest to nearest - the ABS will take the peddle slowly to the floor when the truck is running.

Second and maybe an issue - those U-shaped loops going and coming from the ABS module may have air in them, and because the bleeder screws are smaller than the lines its tough to get out. I am told you can take the brake line off the caliper and give it five rapid pumps. Hopefully that flushes fluid through those loops. Much easier with a helper. Refill the master cylinder between each wheel.

Third - you might have air in the ABS solenoids. Right way to clear it is get a ABS tool and manually cycle each solenoid. Not a bad idea anyway, because they seize up if not used. The hilbilly way is to get the truck as good as you can with the other two methods, then take it to a gravel road and get the ABS to come on a few times, then go home and blead the brakes again. I strongly encourage the first way, I have never personally tried the hillbilly way so I can't verify it works, and its also much less safe. Consider yourself warned.

Good luck. Let me know if you have any questions - but I strongly encourage you to check out the manual before proceeding.

Thanks! I do refer to the FSM every time I work on the Pathfinder. It’s so great that they have the entirety of the FSMs. Both times I bled the brakes - I’ve done the RR, LF, LR, RF per the FSM. I didn’t however bother torquing the bleeders to 69in lb. I think I might’ve gotten them a smidge tighter than that anyways using a stubby wrench.

I also did hillbilly method for the third item - but I won’t be able to bleed until tomorrow morning because it just started raining pretty heavily out here. Hopeful that another bleed tomorrow morning will improve the pedal feel.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Thanks! I do refer to the FSM every time I work on the Pathfinder. It’s so great that they have the entirety of the FSMs. Both times I bled the brakes - I’ve done the RR, LF, LR, RF per the FSM. I didn’t however bother torquing the bleeders to 69in lb. I think I might’ve gotten them a smidge tighter than that anyways using a stubby wrench.

I also did hillbilly method for the third item - but I won’t be able to bleed until tomorrow morning because it just started raining pretty heavily out here. Hopeful that another bleed tomorrow morning will improve the pedal feel.

So you likely have air in the loops per number 2.

Do you have an ABS light on?

 

[jsean]

So you likely have air in the loops per number 2.

Do you have an ABS light on?

No ABS light. I suspect you’re right on the air in the loops above the module. I plan on trying your method if I don’t get any improvement after doing another round of caliper bleeding tomorrow

 

[vwmaniaman]

I never believed I could bleed the brakes on our Mazda 5 without turning a bleed screw. I bought an Ancel 610 and it bleed them with the hydraulic pump in the ABS unit. I also have a Ford E450 that had to be bled with a Sun unit at a repair shop. Their mechanics tried for over an hour and then put the Sun achine on it and it had the brakes bled in 10 minutes. I never would have believed it if I had not seen it.

 

[Nukeman7]

Consider buying this Phoenix Systems Reverse Brake Bleeder tool for $52. I just used one to reverse bleed a vehicle after I replaced the master cylinder. The tool pushed all of the air bubbles out of the ABS module, through the brake line loops and back up into the master cylinder reservoir. Used less than a quart of fresh brake fluid and the brake pedal was firmer than in any other vehicle I have serviced in over 35 years! I was initially skeptical, but it worked like a charm.

 

[jsean]

Consider buying this Phoenix Systems Reverse Brake Bleeder tool for $52. I just used one to reverse bleed a vehicle after I replaced the master cylinder. The tool pushed all of the air bubbles out of the ABS module, through the brake line loops and back up into the master cylinder reservoir. Used less than a quart of fresh brake fluid and the brake pedal was firmer than in any other vehicle I have serviced in over 35 years! I was initially skeptical, but it worked like a charm.

View attachment 216285

Thanks for the recommendation - I have it on the way. Hurts nothing to give it a reverse flush too during an upcoming weekend.

I did bleed the calipers again today, got a bubble or two out of the rear calipers on both sides after last evening’s drive on a gravel road. Brake pedal feels normal, which imo is still a bit soft on these from factory.