Multiple styles of torque wrenches. It could click, it could kind of "give way" at the torque. It should do one or the other when you get to the right torque.
It's not an "auto" in the traditional sense of transmissions. What you have is an auto shifting manual transmission. Essentially the same transmission you shifted for 40 years, with a mechanism and computer on top of it clutching and shifting for you.
For washers, while it doesn't make a huge difference, the proper use is the flat side should go up / against the pan, curved side to fastener (drain bolt). In my experience, most people don't notice there's even an difference, so good job on actually paying attention.
Not only that, but it comes down to whether your car was built with Active Steering or not. For some reason if you have that option, P/S fluid is to be used.
If you're only getting to topping off a massive sump like that after 6 months, in think topping off with 1300 will be no issue. You aren't replacing half the sump or anything crazy. Save the money.
We top off new trucks with 1300 15w40 and then oil change every 30k miles (about every 2 months)...
2011 BMW 335d. Kept doing the turkey baster method and replacing what was in it with Red Line P/S fluid. After about a quart over a month or so it didn't clean up like I wanted. Read that since I don't have active steering, it takes ATF. Drained and refilled a few quarts of Transynd 668 into it...
Not quite a change, but dropped the Wix filter out of the 7.3 psd at 1800 miles due to running 3 qts of HPL EC for those miles. Replaced it with another Wix (last one), another quart of HPL EC, and topped off with more Brotella T6. Oil filter cutter should be here this week sometime, curious to...